I thanked myself that my suite was not far from elevator bank (truly the essence of luck in this city) and a swipe of my key in the door took me once more quite by surprise. A central atrium hung with hundreds of yellow origami birds dangling in the bright morning sunlight had an instantaneous calming effect and the lush gardenlike setting all around me invited a moment of repose (perhaps after a bad night of losing I thought). Blame it on Liberace Vegas is anything but subtle. It was a subtle reminder of where I was and the chiming sounds of the casino drove that point home.

A grand cobblestoned circular drive sheltered a fountain spouting higher than any in Kansas City and the reception desk in the cavernous lobby was bookended by Plexiglass vases at least 25 feet tall sprouting bud vases of dangling lavender orchids. So, when I pulled up to The Aria Hotel in a taxi I was ready for some eye popping sights. After all this is a town that sprung from nothing in the middle of the desert and boy, it never lets you forget it.

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